Articles by Chris Thatcher

If you've ever scrolled through an online marketplace and found a set of tubular control arms or a disc brake conversion kit at a price that seemed way too good to be true, you already know the temptation. When you're working on a build with a real budget, saving a couple hundred bucks on a single part feels like a win. But here's the thing, that deal might end up costing you a lot more than money.

Drum brakes have kept classic cars and trucks stopping reliably for decades. For a lot of owners, they still do the job. But driving habits have changed , more highway miles, more traffic, more varied terrain, and disc brakes handle those conditions differently.

Here's what actually matters when you're deciding whether a conversion makes sense for your build.

Wheel clearance is one of those details that rarely gets attention until it becomes a problem. The brake kit can be correct for the vehicle, everything installs as intended, and then the wheel goes back on and contacts the caliper. At that point, progress stops and frustration starts.

This is especially common with disc brake conversions on classic vehicles. Drum brakes were compact and hid everything inside the wheel drum. Disc brakes place the rotor and caliper closer to the inside of the wheel, which changes how much space is available. CPP disc brake conversion kits are engineered to work within factory suspension geometry, but wheel clearance still depends on the wheel itself.

The good news is that wheel clearance can be measured ahead of time. With a straight edge and a tape measure, it is possible to understand what will fit and what will not before final assembly.

This process applies across CPP supported platforms, including Chevy C10 trucks, Chevelles, Camaros, and other classic GM, Ford, and Mopar vehicles.

One of the first questions that comes up when planning a disc brake conversion is whether the original wheels can stay on the vehicle. For a lot of builders, the goal isn’t just better braking, it’s keeping the factory look. That’s especially true with classic trucks and muscle cars, where the wheels are part of the identity.

The honest answer is that it depends. Some setups work without any issues, others don’t, and the difference usually has less to do with the brake kit itself and more to do with the wheel’s size, shape, and offset. Front disc brake conversions are usually straightforward. Rear disc conversions are where most of the surprises happen.

This applies across the board, whether you’re working on a Chevy C10, a Chevelle (A-body), a Camaro (F-body), or another classic platform that CPP supports.

This article explains how disc brake conversions can affect the resale value of classic cars and trucks. It covers buyer expectations, originality concerns, installation quality, and why well-designed, vehicle-specific upgrades are often viewed as a positive by most buyers.

This guide explains how to install front disc brakes on a classic Chevy C10 using a vehicle-specific CPP kit. It walks through preparation, disassembly, spindle and brake component installation, bleeding procedures, and final safety checks, with practical tips based on real home garage installs.

If you’ve ever owned or driven a classic Chevrolet, Impala, or C10 truck, you know that the “period correct” steering experience isn’t always what today’s drivers expect. In their original form, these cars and trucks can feel disconnected from the road. The steering wheel may shake, wander on the highway, or require frustrating effort in tight spaces. As these cars age, those symptoms can get even worse, thanks to decades of wear and outdated engineering.

Classic Performance Products (CPP) knows these challenges all too well. That’s why the CPP 500 Series Power Steering Box exists, not just to patch up old parts, but to completely modernize classic car steering for performance, comfort, and reliability.