Power Steering Fluid
Always use the correct type of power steering fluid that is recommended by the manufacturer. If you have components from several different manufacturers it is
important that the fluid used is compatible with all the components. Most high quality fluids will list the manufacturers that their fluid is compatible with on their
label.
Vibrations in the Steering Wheel and Column
In some installations the steering wheel or column could vibrate while the car is being driven. Whenever possible, use a rag joint to connect the steering box or rack and pinion to the steering shaft. If there is not enough space for a rag joint you may be able to use a smaller diameter vibration damper. The diameter of these dampers is only slightly larger than a steering shaft coupler, but a couple of inches longer than a rag joint.
Pressure Reduction
It is highly unlikely that you will need to reduce the pump pressure. Reducing the pressure will not make the steering less sensitive. It may make the car more difficult to steer at low (parking lot) speeds or when stopped. A better way to make the steering less sensitive, or require more effort at driving speeds is to increase the caster. Caster makes the steering wheel return to center and increases the steering wheel effort. Most manual steering cars use about 1 degree positive caster, while most power steering systems work well between 3.5 and 7 of degrees positive caster.
Remote Reservoir Systems
When using a remote reservoir, always mount the reservoir higher than the pump, and as close as possible to the pump. Long hoses and a low mounted reservoir can reduce the fluid flow to the pump causing the fluid to cavitate. Cavitation will not allow the pump to create pressure, and causes the pump to wear at a faster rate. Always use the largest size hose possible between the reservoir and the pump.
Connecting the Steering Shafts
- Determine whether you will need a two or three U-joint system. This is dictated by the angle between the shafts. We recommend up to 15° per U-joint for the optimum system, however up to 30° is acceptable. A support bearing will needed if you are using more than two U-joints.
- Select the type of couplers, or U-joints, and shaft that will be needed. The Application Guide lists the most common shaft sizes used on steering boxes and rack and pinions. If the Application Guide does not list your application, then measure the diameter of the shaft and count the number of splines. If there is a section without splines, count the number of splines that go half way around the shaft and multiply by 2 to determine the correct spline count. Some shafts do not use splines; instead they have two large flats. These are known as DD shaft. They are usually 3/4" DD or 1” DD.
- Measure the length of steering shafts that you will need to connect the column to the steering box or rack and pinion. It may be necessary to order the shaft longer than you need and adjust the shaft length after you install the couplers or U-joints on the column and steering box/rack and pinion.
- Connect all of the shafts and couplers. Turn the steering wheel back and forth to the ends of the steering travel, checking to see if any of the shafts, U-joints, or other parts of the steering system can bind; make any changes needed to get a smooth steering movement. Also make certain that all of the U-joints are phased correctly.
- Where any set screws are used you will need to make a small indentation were the set screw contacts the steering shaft. The set screws one at time use a drill bit that is just small enough to not damage the threads in the U-joint, and drill a very shallow hole. This hole should be just deep enough to prevent the U-joint from coming off the shaft if the set screw were to come loose. Re-install the set screw and start this process over at the next set screw.
Fasteners
All bolt and nut fasteners are important attaching parts in that they can affect the performance of vital components. If replacement of these fasteners becomes necessary, style, type, quality and grade MUST be equivalent to OEM. DO NOT use a lesser substitute. Torque values must be maintained during assembly to assure proper retention of vital components.
New vs. Used vs. Rebuilt
Purchasing used is gambling, especially when you don’t know the history of the source vehicle. When you connect a power steering pump to a rack or gear, you are instantly contaminating one with the other. The fluid can flow 8 to 10 quarts per minute and at that volume, it doesn’t take long for the contaminated fluid from one unit to infect the other. If using a used pump, we highly recommend using a power steering return line filter (#20-0038F). So, now your choices are new or rebuilt. In many cases, new is no longer available and in some cases a new unit may never have been tested. When purchasing from CPP, all of our units are 100% tested.
Getting it Up and Running
Building a street rod or other specialty vehicle requires a different start up procedure than just replacing a worn out unit. Power steering systems are self bleeding, but we must help them a little along the way. It is preferred that the power steering system be the last to get going. This is because you will have your hands plenty busy firing up a fresh engine. After everything is working fine and all your adjustments completed, now is the time to hook up the power steering pump belt.
V-Belt Systems
- Fill the system with your high quality fluid and let it set undisturbed for a few minutes while you recheck your work. Leave the reservoir cap off. Use this time to wipe the components off in preparation for leak check and visually inspect the hose routing, belt alignment and attaching hardware. 2. After your inspection, raise the front wheels off the ground and support the vehicle. Without starting the engine, slowly begin to cycle the steering wheel. The key here is “slowly”; about one revolution per 8-10 seconds. Continue to top off the fluid level at the reservoir. When the level remains steady, inspect for leaks and start the engine.
- Check the fluid level and inspect for leaks. Some vane type pumps require 1000 RPM or more to take the fluid down. Slowly cycle the steering wheel in both directions, lightly contacting the wheel stops. Continue to check the fluid level and add if necessary. If the pump begins to get noisy, turn the engine off and let the system set for 15 minutes. Air in the system will cause the pump to growl and the fluid level may rise when the engine is turned off.
- Repeat the above steps until the system is operating normally. If air is still a problem after several rest periods, it may be that air is entering the system faster that it can be expelled at the reservoir fill. Look for leaks. Even the smallest of fluid leaks can be a source of massive amounts of air entering the system.
- Always test drive the vehicle, making sure it is safe.
Serpentine Systems
Obviously, the serpentine system does not allow for engine startup prior to power steering startup. Therefore, follow all of the above steps and take special precaution on step #2.
