Tech

If you've ever scrolled through an online marketplace and found a set of tubular control arms or a disc brake conversion kit at a price that seemed way too good to be true, you already know the temptation. When you're working on a build with a real budget, saving a couple hundred bucks on a single part feels like a win. But here's the thing, that deal might end up costing you a lot more than money.

Drum brakes have kept classic cars and trucks stopping reliably for decades. For a lot of owners, they still do the job. But driving habits have changed , more highway miles, more traffic, more varied terrain, and disc brakes handle those conditions differently.

Here's what actually matters when you're deciding whether a conversion makes sense for your build.

Wheel clearance is one of those details that rarely gets attention until it becomes a problem. The brake kit can be correct for the vehicle, everything installs as intended, and then the wheel goes back on and contacts the caliper. At that point, progress stops and frustration starts.

This is especially common with disc brake conversions on classic vehicles. Drum brakes were compact and hid everything inside the wheel drum. Disc brakes place the rotor and caliper closer to the inside of the wheel, which changes how much space is available. CPP disc brake conversion kits are engineered to work within factory suspension geometry, but wheel clearance still depends on the wheel itself.

The good news is that wheel clearance can be measured ahead of time. With a straight edge and a tape measure, it is possible to understand what will fit and what will not before final assembly.

This process applies across CPP supported platforms, including Chevy C10 trucks, Chevelles, Camaros, and other classic GM, Ford, and Mopar vehicles.

One of the first questions that comes up when planning a disc brake conversion is whether the original wheels can stay on the vehicle. For a lot of builders, the goal isn’t just better braking, it’s keeping the factory look. That’s especially true with classic trucks and muscle cars, where the wheels are part of the identity.

The honest answer is that it depends. Some setups work without any issues, others don’t, and the difference usually has less to do with the brake kit itself and more to do with the wheel’s size, shape, and offset. Front disc brake conversions are usually straightforward. Rear disc conversions are where most of the surprises happen.

This applies across the board, whether you’re working on a Chevy C10, a Chevelle (A-body), a Camaro (F-body), or another classic platform that CPP supports.

When it comes to upgrading the suspension on a classic car or truck, quality matters. From improved handling to long-term durability, the parts you install play a major role in how your vehicle performs on the road. That’s why Classic Performance Products (CPP) focuses on designing and manufacturing many of its suspension components right here in the USA, using modern engineering tools and robotic welding technology.

If you’re serious about restoring a classic car or truck, having the right tools can make all the difference. One piece of shop equipment that instantly improves efficiency, safety, and flexibility is a fully adjustable chassis dolly. And this new chassis dolly setup checks all the boxes. Whether you’re working on a full frame-off restoration, LS swap project, or custom C10 build, this tool makes moving and supporting your chassis easier than ever.

Ford’s fourth-gen F-Series (1961–66) went through plenty of styling updates each year, but the chassis stayed mostly the same—until mid-1965, when Ford introduced the now-infamous Twin I-Beam front suspension. This setup used two long I-beam axles, each pivoting on opposite sides of the frame. The concept was simple: let each wheel move independently, while keeping the strength of a traditional straight axle.

In this video we dive into the CPP Street Trac Traction Bars kit (Part 6281TB-S) designed specifically for the 1962-1974 Chevrolet Nova and 1967-1981 Chevrolet Camaro / Pontiac Firebird (leaf spring rear suspension) to eliminate axle wrap, tire hop and unstable launches.

When it comes to building or servicing your power steering system, knowing the correct fitting sizes and torque specs can save you time, leaks, and frustration. Below is a quick-reference guide to some of the most common power steering fitting sizes found on GM, Ford, and Mopar systems — along with standard torque values you should follow during installation.

Designed specifically for 1955-57 full-size Chevy vehicles. The sway bar is 1¼″ in diameter, with hollow construction, maximizing strength while minimizing weight.  “High clearance” design: engineered to fit more easily under the chassis and accommodate wider front tires, improving tire clearance compared to standard bars.  Uses rod-end style links instead of fixed bushings, which aids in free movement and better handling response.